Today is the 85th birthday of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand. As the King is considered to be the patriarch of the country, father's day is celebrated today and December 5th has also become a national holiday. Many Thais spend the day with their fathers and it is traditional to give a canna flower, or dok Buddha ruksa as it is called in Thai, to dads and granddads on this day to show respect. Happy Father's Day and Long Live the King!
This has to be the only music video in the world that includes the combination of a Rastafarian on rollerblades, random guys breakdancing and kickboxing, jazz musicians dressed in black and white, an unruly backpacker, and tuk tuks. The song, Tuk Tuk Breakdown, is pretty eclectic itself as it blends a variety of music genres together and as the lyrics focus on everything from auto rickshaw drivers taking farang, or foreigners, to famous sites around Bangkok to eating nam tok, a spicy Thai meat dish. Written by Kai-Jo Brothers six years ago, it still perfectly encapsulates the fun and quirky nature of Thailand.
In Bangkok, most tuk tuk drivers have a routine area for parking their vehicles while waiting for customers. The operator of this auto rickshaw is a regular on Khao San Road, the street that British author Alex Garland called "the centre of the backpacking universe" in his 1996 novel, The Beach. Khao San is where budget travelers can find everything they need before and after heading off to the various islands in Thailand (and other locations around Southeast Asia), including internet cafes, ATMs, cheap food, Singha beer, travel agents, fake IDs, and fisherman pants. Oh, and for those who leave the street, there are tuk tuks like this one available for hire.
There's nothing quite like riding in a tuk tuk at night. Unlike the experience of traveling in an enclosed car, driving along in an open vehicle is not so removed from the blinking city lights, urban sounds, and action on the streets. Even after nine years of living in this city, I still get a rush every time I take a three-wheeler after dark.
For Bangkok tuk tuk drivers trying to give their vehicles an 80s lowrider look, dingleballs are an essential accessory. They fit right in with the customized paint jobs made up of colorful stripes and other graphics. The only thing missing is fuzzy dice and girls in bikinis.
If you're visiting Thailand and need a fun and unique souvenir or gift for someone back home, I suggest buying a hand-crafted toy tuk tuk made out of beer and soda cans. My favorite ones sport Thai brands of beer, such as Chang, Singha, or Leo, but the ones that have Thai writing that spell Coke or Pepsi are pretty cool, too. You might want to pick up a few considering the low cost of 159 baht each, or roughly five US dollars, and if you purchase more than one, do as the native Thais do and barter for a lower price.
Top 10 Things That Foreign Travelers Like To Do When Visiting Thailand 1. Visit a Buddhist temple 2. Attend a Thai boxing match 3. Shop at Jatujak Weekend Market (Bangkok) 4. Eat Thai food 5. Ride an elephant 6. Have clothing custom-made at a tailor shop 7. Get a Thai massage 8. Take a ferry ride down the Chao Phraya River 9. Go to the beach 10. Ride in a tuk tuk
Today is Chulalongkorn Day, or Wan Piyamaharaj, a Thai national holiday observed every October 23rd that commemorates the life of King Rama V, one of the most beloved monarchs in Thai history. King Chulalongkorn (reign 1868 - 1910) is remembered for his major reforms and for helping to modernize Siam. You can find his image throughout Bangkok, including this portrait of him in his military regalia adhered to the windshield of a tuk tuk.
During the Thai rainy season, the tuk tuk business is not as lucrative as the rest of the year. Some people avoid riding in the open air vehicles in wet weather. It's a good thing that some drivers have plastic or cloth shields that roll down on the sides of their three-wheelers for those of us that like taking tuk tuks all year long.
I don't want to be the one to break the news to this tuk tuk driver, but his custom-painted red, white, and blue camouflage design on the inside of his vehicle isn't helping to disguise his tuk tuk. It's ironically creating the opposite effect of drawing more attention to his three-wheeler. I guess it's not a bad idea for someone who is constantly on the look out for more paying passengers.
The face on this windshield reminds me of the animated films, Cars and Cars 2. Perhaps for the third movie in the series, Pixar could have a tuk tuk with cool shades as one of the characters. Just a thought.
In Thailand, the number nine is considered to be auspicious. In Thai, nine is "gaao" which also means moving forward, hence it is believed to be lucky. Those who get caught up in the lottery here look for tickets with the number nine, and if you open a business or get married, you should do so on the ninth day of the ninth month at nine o'clock with nine monks present. If you're a tuk tuk driver, you should place stickers with the number nine all over your vehicle.
Who does the driver of this tuk tuk with an orange animal-print seat think he is? Fred Flintstone? These cushions would fit perfectly in Fred's stone age car.
In Bangkok, flowers are everywhere. Shrines are decorated with garlands of bright yellow marigolds, temples are bursting with phuang malai offerings made from jasmine and roses, businesses display fresh blooms for good luck and prosperity, and individuals hang blossoms in their homes and in their vehicles. It's no wonder then that Bangkok's huge flower market, or Pak Klong Talad, is open 24 hours every day throughout the year. And what better way to deliver the blooms from the market than in a colorful tuk tuk.
If you saw these letters on the back of a Bangkok auto rickshaw and didn't know who or what it references, you would probably think it was the moniker of the driver's girlfriend or wife. But it turns out that it's the name of one of the Thai tuk tuk manufacturers, Monika Motors Ltd. Well, at least the drivers don't get that name tattooed on their forearms.
Thais, in general, aren't into maps, and that includes local tuk tuk drivers. So, what is that map doing in the three-wheeler then? It's for foreigners. Notice that it's in English and that the various tourist landmarks are highlighted. The only time I've ever seen maps like this appear from the ceilings of tuk tuks is when drivers are showing travelers places where they want to take them. Just beware of those drivers who want to take you around the city for twenty baht. You'll end up at touristy gem and tailor shops rather than the places on the map that you intended to visit.
Winnie the Pooh is one of the more popular fictional characters in Thailand. He regularly appears in the form of stuffed toys, on T-shirts, cushions, and bed linens, and even in tuk tuks. Seeing this character in an Asian context reminds me of the Tao of Pooh, the stimulating book by Benjamin Hoff that attempts to explain Taoist philosophy through the various Pooh characters. There are many inspirational passages in the book that make you stop and think about ways to conduct your life, including, “Do you really want to be happy? You can begin by being appreciative of who you are and what you've got.”
Today, I told my tuk tuk driver that I thought it was cool that he had a sticker with the image of the Argentine revolutionary, Che Guevara. His response was, "Oh, I didn't know who that was, but did you see my Mickey Mouse keychain?".
Bangkok tuk tuk drivers love to personalize their vehicles with custom paint jobs and decorative elements, such as Thai-style motifs on the roof. Considering that most of the models of auto rickshaws in Bangkok look similar when they roll out of the factory, it makes sense. It's also a way for drivers to show their creativity and individuality. And above all, the decorations are supposed to help attract more customers. Well, at least draw in those patrons that have a penchant for bright colors and showy embellishments.
There's a reason why Thai tuk tuk drivers place their sacred decorations, including amulets, on the ceilings of their vehicles. Traditional precepts dictate proper methods of handling and displaying these sacred talismans, including the stipulation of placing them in a relatively high position to show respect. Either that or it has something to do with the fact that these three-wheelers have small dashboards.
Despite the fact that the driver of this tuk tuk proudly displays a little statue of the happy Buddha on his dashboard, he isn't very happy. Come to think of it, he's nothing like this Chinese folkloric deity. The driver is super skinny with long black hair.
In Thailand, there's a certain group that's into American Wild West culture. I have to admit that it's kind of strange seeing Thais wearing cowboy hats, big silver belt buckles, bootcut jeans, and turquoise jewelry. Tuk tuk drivers who are enthusiasts of this lifestyle, however, typically don't feel the need to dress the part. Most of them simply put a sticker on their vehicle depicting a cowboy or the defiant Native American Chief, Geronimo.
When Bangkok tuk tuk drivers need to bring in more cash, they call on Nang Gwak, the Thai goddess who lures in customers and their fat wallets with her waving hand. Dressed in traditional garb and holding a big money bag, she's usually depicted as being full-figured to denote her abundance of resources. As I snapped this picture inside a tuk tuk, the driver jokingly told me that this sticker represents his wife.
Driving a tuk tuk in Bangkok must be stressful, especially when you consider the horrendous traffic and the annoying passengers that the drivers encounter on a day-to-day basis. According to this Thai TV commercial from five years ago, all it takes is a sip of an energy drink to escape the urban nightmare and be transported back to the tranquil countryside. The name of the beverage, by the way, is Look Thung, referring to the style of Thai country music that tuk tuk drivers here generally love.
In the Northeast region of Thailand where many Bangkok tuk tuk drivers hail from originally, sticky rice, a staple in the local diet, is eaten out of containers like this one. Known as katip, these woven bamboo baskets are occasionally hung in tuk tuks to represent earning an honest living and "bringing home the bacon". I wonder if there's an expression in Thai about bringing home the sticky rice.
It looks like the food truck craze has made it to Sri Lanka. But rather than retrofitting Econoline vans with kitchen implements, tuk tuks are being employed. The driver of this particular three-wheeler is offering freshly baked breads for sale. Had I not just eaten curry and rice purchased out of the back of another tuk tuk, I would have bought a loaf or two.
In preparation for a trip to Sri Lanka next week, I've been doing a little research about their culture and their tuk tuks. I came across this entertaining music video from the Sri Lankan music producer, Clewz. In the video, he and his buddies, Yo Yo, Kaizer Kaiz, and Dylo, sing about tuk tuks and ride along in a carefree animated world where Bob Marley and the Beach Boys reign supreme.
Here we are in the midst of the Thai rainy season. It's the time of year when you shouldn't venture outdoors without an umbrella. Even the monk image on this incantation cloth in the tuk tuk is carrying one. But if the wet weather eventually causes major flooding in Thailand like it did last year, we're going to need more than umbrellas. It's going to require boats or maybe even lotus-shaped vessels like the one on which the blue monk is standing.
In Bangkok, some animal lovers have no reservations about taking their pets everywhere, including inside restaurants and supermarkets. The driver of this tuk tuk even brings his doggie to work, so if you want to take a ride in his vehicle, you'd better be prepared to share the backseat with a furry creature that may periodically lick your arm, sniff your trousers, or drool on your shoes. And never mind when the driver stops his tuk tuk along the way to buy sausages for his pooch or let his pup out to take a leak.
The most recognized word on the planet is O.K. and Thai tuk tuk drivers certainly use the term often. The exact origin of the expression is uncertain, but the first place it appeared in writing was in U.S. President Martin Van Buren's 1840 re-election campaign. His slogan was 'Martin Van Buren is O.K.' which creatively referenced his nickname 'Old Kinderhook'. I wonder what percent of the world's population knows the word, 'Barbie'?
Thai tuk tuk drivers have a variety of ways to kill time while waiting for fares. Many read the newspaper, some work on cleaning their tuk tuk, and others like to play chess with their buddies. But perhaps the most popular pastime for the drivers is taking naps. Who can blame them? The back seats of tuk tuks are pretty comfortable.
Being immersed in a culture where most people believe in reincarnation, sometimes I think about what certain people were in their past lives. In regards to the driver of this tuk tuk, my guess is that he was a 13 year old girl. Just look at those sparkly stars that he stuck on his license plate. I guess it could be worse. There could be pictures of unicorns and rainbows plastered all over his tuk tuk.
If you ask most Thai tuk tuk drivers about their favorite musical group, they'll almost always refer to Carabao, the Thai rock band known for their "songs for life", or pleng phuea chiwit,which tackle a variety of social and political issues. It's common to see stickers promoting the band on tuk tuks. Just look for a logo with a buffalo skull, a symbol of hard work, fighting, and patience. One of their most popular songs, "Made in Thailand", expresses deep pride for their homeland. If you can read Thai, feel free to sing along with the karaoke video.
Decorative bodhi leaves, like this one, can be found hanging in various Thai modes of transportation, including tuk tuks. They're an important Buddhist symbol as the Buddha reached enlightenment under a bodhi tree. These ornaments come in an assortment of colors, but are mostly red and blue, and they're often further embellished with gold. Oftentimes, they have representations of monks on them, and this particular one is decorated with several small auspicious images, including fish and Buddha figures. They typically have a bell and tassel dangling from them, and they're almost always laminated in plastic to add to the completely unnatural look of the leaves.
Thais, in general, love anything colorful, so it comes as no surprise that tuk tuk drivers like to install multicolored lights inside their vehicles. The vibrant, somewhat garish tail lamps create a carnivalesque effect which adds to the whimsical look of these three-wheelers. It just goes to show that tuk tuk drivers here are creative and enjoy being surrounded by things that are colorful and fun.
I think the driver of this Bangkok tuk tuk has seen too many action flicks. With bullet hole stickers plastered all over his vehicle, he's apparently trying to simulate the look of having been in a Hollywood-style gun fight. It makes me wonder what kind of reaction he's looking for on the streets. Does he want to communicate to potential customers that he's offering dangerous, action-packed rides? Or is he warning passengers that they'd better be nice or else?
Tuk Tuk Sessions, according to their website, is a project "born out of a desire to play music and give the world a visual tour of life in Phnom Penh. We want to capture the bustling, vibrant streets of the Penh, accompanied by equally vibrant tunes, punctuated with the mandatory horns, moto revs, and slight chaos." To date there have been forty-one recordings that make up the project, each session involving "one song, one take, one tuk tuk". Here's "Chapter 29" featuring Dengue Fever, a Los Angeles based band formed by two brothers who fell in love with Khmer music from the '60's after a trip to Cambodia. The lead singer, Chhom Nimol, was discovered at a nightclub in Long Beach's Little Phnom Penh.
One way to market services or products in Bangkok involves posting ads on the back of tuk tuks. I've seen everything from new condo projects to mouthwash being advertised. It's a win-win (win) situation where the drivers make some extra cash, those advertising attract more customers, and in this particular case, backpackers traveling in Bangkok have a place to stay.
Load it on and pile it up. Thailand's tuk tuks are made for hauling. Whether it's wares that are being taken to the market to be sold, purchases that are being transported back home, or a mattress that's being moved across town, these load-bearing three-wheelers can carry it all. Occasionally, there's even room in the tuk tuks for passengers.
Welcome to Art of the Tuk Tuk, a brand new blog about the colorful auto rickshaws of Thailand and Southeast Asia brought to you by the author of Still Life in Moving Vehiclesand Thai Taxi Talismans. Hop in! It's bound to be an exhilarating ride.